Egypt On The Go
Flying to Egypt
Egypt is served by international airports at Alexandria, Cairo, Luxor and Hurghada on the mainland, and at Sharm al Shaykh on the Sinai peninsula. Most major airlines have offices at Cairo International Airport and in Maydan at-Tahrir in downtown Cairo. Despite the fact that it is located to the north of the city, most airlines from Europe approach the air field from the south. In daylight passengers are offered a magnificent view of Cairo, the Nile, and the Giza Pyramids. Egypt has two national carriers for internal flights, Egyptair and Air Sinai.
Overland to Egypt
Private vehicles are not permitted to enter Egypt from Israel; however travellers may use public transport and enter Egypt via Rafah on the northern coast of Sinai or from Eilat on the Red Sea. Buses run regularly from Tel Aviv and Jerusalem to the border at Rafah. Passengers disembark from the Israeli vehicle, go through customs and take an Egyptian bus or taxi. There are no facilities for issuing visas at the border. In Eilat, Israeli buses are permitted to enter Egypt and travel as far as Sharm al-Sheikh at the southern tip of Sinai.
All private vehicles entering Egypt must have a triptyque or carnet de passage en douane from an automobile club in the country of registration or pay customs duty which can be as high as 250 percent. Emergency triptyques are available at the port of entry via the Automobile and Touring Club of Egypt. This permits a car to enter Egypt for three months with one extension. The extension is available from the Automobile and Touring Club of Egypt, Qasr al Nil, Cairo. All persons travelling in the vehicle must have a valid passport and the driver must also have an International Driver's Licence.
The border with Libya is open and buses and taxis make regular runs between Alexandria and Sollum. However, there are some travel restrictions for Westerners. Consult your own embassy in Egypt, or the nearest Libyan embassy for details.
From the airport
All airports in Egypt have a taxi service to city centres, operated on a flat fee basis. In Cairo transport includes limousine, taxi and bus. Official Cairo taxis are predominantly black and white and Alexandria taxis are black and orange. There are also larger Peugeot taxis in a variety of colours, but they all have an emblem and number painted on the driver's door. Fees are often the same as the limousine service. The Airport Bus Service operates from Terminal 1. The bus leaves when full and stops at Maydan Tahrir in downtown Cairo, in Mohandeseen, and along Pyramids Road in Giza.
Egypt by rail
The Egyptian State Railway is a government-owned system founded in 1851, which services the entire Nile Valley down to Aswan, the Red Sea cities of Suez and Port Said, the Delta and Northern Coast cities of Alexandria (two stops) and Marsa Mutrah. There are at least half a dozen through trains a day on major routes. Fares are inexpensive, but unless you are travelling with a tour, tickets must be purchased at the main railway stations (in Cairo at Ramesses Station at Maydan Ramesses). The privately-owned Wagon-Lits train company runs three fast turbo-trains a day from Cairo to Alexandria (2 hours). Bookings should be made in advance at Ramesses Station, Cairo or at Alexandria station. Wagon-Lits also operate trains and sleepers between Cairo and Luxor (10 hours) and Aswan (15 hours).
Egypt by bus
Air-conditioned buses link most parts of Egypt to Cairo and Alexandria. Seats may be reserved up to two days in advance. There is also a fleet of cheaper non-air-conditioned buses. Although bus times may change without any notice, departures are so frequent that schedule changes are not a problem at all. Tickets for air-conditioned buses should always be booked in advance.
By bus around Cairo
The main bus network consists of large red-and-white and blue-and-white buses, which are usually overcrowded to bursting point. They also provide ample opportunity for petty theft and unwelcome advances. Both Alexandria and Cairo have tram or metro systems that run through at least part of the city. Trains run every few minutes from early morning to midnight and fares are inexpensive, usually under a pound to the furthest destination.
By tram around Alexandria
Tram lines in Alexandria run only between Ramleh Station (called "Terminus") near the Cecil Hotel and destinations to the east of the city.
By metro around Cairo
The Cairo metro system is identified by circular signs with a big red M. The metro is clean and efficient, and an easy way to get around. Note that every train has a special carriage for women. The system runs north-south from Heliopolis to Helwan through the heart of the city. Another line was opened from the northern suburb of Shubra el-Kheima to Bulag al-Dakrour and other lines are currently under construction.
By tram around Heliopolis
Cairo also has tram systems and Heliopolis is served by six tram lines.
Egypt by service taxi
Collective service taxis are a faster alternative to the bus, and will get you just about everywhere in Egypt. The fare is about the same as for the bus, and on the main routes there are several departures daily. These taxis, often estate Peugeots - hence their pet name of 'Beejoo' - seat six or seven and leave as soon as they are full. Their other name is "Flying Coffins" as the drivers are renowned for their speed, since the sooner they arrive the sooner they can load up again. The service station is usually beside the bus or train station.
Car rental in Egypt
Driving in Egypt is very demanding. The best alternative is to hire a driver and car together, thus freeing yourself to enjoy the scenery. Car rental agencies exist at most major hotels. Foreigners must have an International Driver's Licence and be at least 25 years of age to rent a car in Egypt. Some agencies offer four-wheel drive vehicles, with or without driver, for desert travel. You will need your passport, driver's licence and a prepayment. Credit cards are accepted.
Desert travel in Egypt
Use commonsense. Bring a compass. Check your car. Be sure to have a good spare tyre. Drive on loose sand as you would on snow. If your wheels get stuck in soft sand, put a rug under the back tires and move out slowly. If you spin your tyres, you will sink deeper into the sand. If your car breaks down along the road, don't abandon your vehicle; even in remote areas another vehicle will pass by. If you break down on a desert track (you should never leave the main road for long distances with only one vehicle), hike to the nearest road and wait. On all desert travels, have ample food, water, salt tablets, a hat and sunglasses. Cover the head and the back of the neck.
Top up your tank at every petrol station, as the next one may be hundreds of miles away. If your tank is small, carry a jerry can on long hauls like Dakhla to Farafrah (390 km). Dehydration can sneak up on you in desert travel. In an emergency one teaspoon of salt and two tablespoons of sugar in a cup of water will revive you.
Desert driving is very monotonous. Remember you are still on a highway. When you wish to pass another vehicle, sound your horn very deliberately, in order to make it clear that you are going to do so. Egyptian drivers need an extra signal, since nearly all of them over-use the horn even when no one is around. Another bad habit is misusing lights at night, either leaving them off or flickering the high beams dangerously. When a car is approaching he may blind you. Blink back and he may stop. He may be checking to see if you are awake.
Nile cruises in Egypt
A cruise on the Nile still is one of the best ways both to visit the temples and ancient sites and sample the peaceful life along the river. Hundreds of ships now cruise along the Nile following more or less the same itinerary but offering a wide choice of accommodation, suitable for every budget. Most people book cruises before they leave for Egypt, which is advisable as it is usually cheaper to buy them as part of a package. Most boats travel between Luxor and Aswan in 3-4 days, sometimes for 6 days to include Abydos and Denderah, and only occasionally sail the whole way from Cairo to Aswan (8 days). Differences in price usually reflect the standard of service, the numbers and the size of the cabin and the quality of the food. More expensive boats tend to have fewer and larger cabins and will make the effort to prepare good food. All boats provide guides to accompany passengers to the sites and some have small libraries on Egyptian history and culture.