Jordan On The Go
Flying to Jordan
Jordan's national airline, Royal Jordanian flies direct to Amman from numerous European and Middle Eastern destinations, North America, India and Southeast Asia. The airline has offices in many destinations including almost every European capital.
Travelling to Jordan by train
The Hejaz railway train runs once a week between Amman and Damascus, Syria, on the same single track that was built by the Ottomans at the beginning of the 20th century. A train leaves Damascus every Sunday.
To Jordan by bus
Karnak, the Syrian bus company, runs an air-conditioned bus service between Damascus and Amman twice daily, which takes about five to six hours counting the time taken to complete formalities at the border crossing, from Dir'a, 100 km south of Damascus on the Syrian side, to Ar-Ramtha 88 km north of Amman on the Jordanian side. Buses leave from the Karnak bus station and arrive at the JETT bus station near Abdali. Book well in advance.
Service taxis (pronounced servees) are shared taxis and they run throughout the day. The taxi rank is near the Karnak bus station. The trip takes almost as long as on the bus.
JETT runs an international bus service from Jeddah to Amman three times a week and the trip lasts around 22 hours.
In East Jerusalem service taxis (sherouts) leave from just opposite Damascus Gate (Bab Al-Amoud) for the King Hussein (Allenby) Bridge and fill up from 7.30 am onwards. The trip takes 40 minutes to the bridge check-point on the Israeli-occupied side. Israelis have to travel in groups of at least five people when entering Jordan. All travellers entering Jordan through these points must spend at least one night in Jordan.
Driving to Jordan
To bring your car into Jordan you will need an international driving licence and insurance, both of which should be obtained before leaving home. You may also have to pay for a local third-party car insurance, which costs very little, or you may want to buy local comprehensive insurance, the cost of which depends on the make of the car.
From the Airport to Amman
The Queen Alia airport, 32 km south of Amman, has a bus service to Amman, arriving at Abdali bus station. There are six JETT buses every day. There are also plenty of taxis.
Public transport in Jordan
There are four types of public transport in Jordan: the big blue buses of the JETT company, which are air-conditioned and reliable but require booking well in advance; the white public buses and public minibuses, which are very cheap and go everywhere in the country; the white shared taxis that cover fixed routes and are called service taxis (they leave when they are full); and the yellow taxis that are not for sharing.
Around Jordan by bus
JETT runs daily services between Amman and Petra. You should book well in advance and can ask to be picked up from your hotel. There are six daily services to Aqaba. JETT also travels daily to the King Hussein Bridge and travels to Hammamat Ma'in Hot Springs south of Madaba.
There are two main bus stations in Amman: Abdali and Wahdat. Buses from Abdali go to Ajlun, Beqa'a, Dayr Alla, Fuhays, Jarash, Irbid, Suwaylah, Wadi As-Seer and the King Hussein Bridge. The Hejazi bus company, whose buses leave from the top end of Abdali, runs a very frequent and cheap non-stop service to Irbid and Yarmuk University. Buses from the Wahdat station go to Aqaba, Madaba, Petra, Ma'an, Wadi Musa, Karak and Hammamat Ma'in.
The Dead Sea is hard to get to without private transport as no JETT or public buses go there. You could take a public bus from Ras Al-Ain in Amman for Shuneh and from there take your chance. Destinations on the front of public buses are always in Arabic, so you may need to be shown the right bus.
Taxis in Jordan
The yellow private taxis are a fast and fairly cheap way of getting about Amman. Beware of taxis in ranks outside big hotels: they often refuse to use their meter and will ask an inflated flat rate. You will be better off walking a short distance away from your hotel and hailing one of the many passing taxis. Jordanian women never sit in the front of a taxi next to the driver, so it is wise for women travellers to follow suit and sit in the back in order to avoid a misunderstanding.
Service taxis from a number of locations in downtown Amman and from Abdali will take you almost anywhere in Amman. Like buses, service taxis also post their destinations in Arabic so you may find it difficult to familiarize yourself with their routes.
Private transport in Jordan
Jordan has an excellent road infrastructure, which is expanding and improving. Driving is on the right-hand side. There are highways from the King Hussein Bridge to the Iraqi border and from Ar-Ramtha to Aqaba. From Amman to Aqaba the four-lane Desert Highway is faster than the two-lane King's Highway but less interesting.
Driving in the city can be hair-raising as Jordanian drivers rarely indicate. They are very responsive to horns, however. If you have to go through one of the "circles" be patient and move slowly. Most signs in Amman are in English as well as Arabic.
If you decide to drive in the desert ensure that your car has the right type of tyres and a 4-wheel drive and take a container with extra petrol/gas and plenty of water. Before you venture into the wilderness inform the nearest Desert Police Patrol station.
Car hire in Jordan
Car hire in Jordan is expensive in comparison to Europe and the US, but there are plenty of choices in Amman and the airport, and to a lesser extent in Aqaba. Rental cars are distinguished by their green number plates with yellow writing.
There are several petrol stations in the capital and major towns but not many on the open road.
Hitch-hiking in Jordan
You can walk and hitch everywhere in the country except in the security area at the Dead Sea and between the Jordanian and Israeli checkpoints on the King Hussein Bridge. It is easy to get lifts unless you are in a very remote area. Drivers will often expect a small contribution towards their petrol, especially if you travel with them a long way. Women should not hitchhike alone. Summer is generally too hot for hitching.