Sumo wrestling

Sumo is Japan's national sport, a uniquely Japanese pursuit involving physical strength, strictly observed ritual, a complex code of behaviour, religious overtones, a daunting hierarchy system and feudalistic training regimes. It originated 15 centuries ago in ancient Shinto ceremonies.

The apprenticeship of wrestlers (called rikishi) is long and harsh. Only when the wrestler makes it to the higher ranks of ozeki or rarely achieved yokozuna (grand champion) does life become easier. Those in the lower ranks become servants of the ozeki or yokozuna, running errands and scrubbing backs.

In the ring

The dohyo-iri (ring entry) ceremony to open the tournament is a fascinating spectacle. The champions strut into the arena in richly embroidered silk ‘aprons’ covering the solid band protecting their midriffs. Salt is tossed across the dohyo (a raised mound of hard clay some 4.6m/15ft in diameter under a large suspended Shinto-roof-style canopy) to rid it of evil spirits.

The combatants then swagger around and start the all-important ‘psyching-out’ of the opponent. Pointedly avoiding each other’s eyes, they raise a massive leg high into the air, slam it down with a mighty thud and lower themselves into the characteristic squat. This goes on for up to five minutes – all part of the great ritual build-up of tension before the wrestlers clash. Note that indulging in these highly stylised opening thea­tricals is a privilege of top-ranked wrestlers only.

The aim is for one wrestler to force the other out of the ring or to make him touch the floor with anything other than his feet. The bout is usually over in one or two minutes, sometimes mere seconds, but the intensity of the struggle and the sheer visual drama make for compelling entertainment.

Where to see sumo

Tournaments were traditionally held at shrines such as Yasukuni-jinja, where they still occasionally take place, but most are held in Tokyo. Three of sumo’s six annual 15-day tournaments occur at the capital's National Sumo Stadium in January, May and September. In downtimes you can visit sumo stables to observe wrestlers’ morning practice sessions. It's a good idea to book well in advance, if you're set on seeing a sumo contest. There are also tournaments during March in Osaka, in July in Nagoya and in November in Fukuoka.