Ko Phangan: overview
Blessed with white-sand beaches and richly forested mountains, the island's current international reputation stems almost exclusively from the infamous Full Moon Party. Consequently, the island remains a destination favoured mainly by budget travellers for its cheap guesthouses, cafés, bars and nightlife.
Thong Sala
Located halfway along the west coast, the island's administrative centre and main arrival point is the small town of Thong Sala. While most party-goers confine themselves to the southern cape beaches of Hat Rin Nok (Sunrise Beach), Hat Rin Nai (Sunset Beach) and nearby Leela Beach, there are plenty of other more isolated bays that skirt the mountainous interior.
Pick your beach
There are several small but fine bays that run north up the east coast from Hat Rin, but a lack of roads means taking a boat is the only way to venture there, and the north coast has two bays worth seeking out. The west coast beaches stretching from Ao Mae Hat all the way to Thong Sala in the south are more attractive than those along the southeastern shores, yet see fewer visitors compared to the Hat Rin area.
Places to visit in Ko Phangan
Full moon party
The Full Moon Party is an essential stop for many. Dubbed the 'world's biggest beach party', it draws hundreds of people for its all-night raves on Hat Rin Nok. The big action happens in front of Paradise Resort, although all the main beach bars have DJs spinning, so the crowd gravitates towards the hottest music. At sunrise, when it all seems over, head up the hill to Backyard Bar for the traditional after-party.
December and January have the wildest nights; guesthouses charge highest prices, and some take only four-night minimum bookings. Don't stay on Hat Rin Nok if you intend to sleep - that is most nights, never mind Full Moon. See www.fullmoon.phangan.info for a list of party dates.
Hat Rin Nok and Hat Rin Nai
Hat Rin's original appeal was that it hosted two beaches within easy walking distance (across a flat headland), both with sensational sunrise and sunset views. Hat Rin Nok is the wider, more popular bay, and is where the main nightlife cranks up, climaxed by the monthly Full Moon party. Hat Rin attracts a global melting pot of young clubbers and alternative lifestyle devotees, who find this tiny pocket of Thailand the perfect place to express their inner selves, assisted by alcohol and other substances.
The less attractive Hat Rin Nai is a thinner stretch of sand lined with beach huts that offer respite from the late-night cacophony over at Hat Rin Nok. The walk between the two beaches is jam-packed with accommodation, shops, restaurants, internet cafes and travel agents. A 15-minute walk south, the pretty Leela beach is more peaceful.
East coast beaches
Hat Yuan and Hat Yao (not to be confused with the longer Hat Yao on the west coast), and particularly Hat Thian, are popualr with travellers seeking isolated beaches. At the northern end of the east coast are the increasingly popular, and beautiful, twin bays of Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi and Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai. There is good cheap accommodation at both.
North coast beaches
Hat Kuat, or Bottle Beach, is accessible by boat from Ao Chalok Lam. The splendid white sands backed by steep hills mark one of Ko Phangan’s best bays, but, as usual, accommodation is at the budget end. A second bay to the west, Ao Chalok Lam, has a large fishing village, the island’s second port, and a small cove, Hat Khom, with a coral reef offshore.
West coast beaches
Starting from the northwest corner, Ao Mae Hat has a sandbank at low tide that connects to the tiny island of Ko Ma and a reef considered the island’s best snorkelling and dive site.
Further down the coast there’s more good snorkelling at Hat Salad, before reaching Hat Yao, or Long Beach, which is rivalling Hat Rin for accommodation, bars and restaurants. There are also more decent facilities further south at Ao Chaophao.
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