Mallorca travel guide
Often spoken of as the ‘pearl of the Mediterranean’, Mallorca lures with sun, sand and sea, but also has plenty of other charms to recommend it, from a cosmopolitan capital to a stunning interior made for active exploration.
Mallorca could claim to be the perfect holiday island, blessed with attributes that entice millions of foreign visitors annually. The deep turquoise of the Mediterranean, hundreds of kilometres of coastline, secluded rocky coves and wide sandy beaches, a vibrant and sophisticated capital city, and of course, some 300 days of brilliant sunshine each year, make this Balearic isle irresistible.
Mallorca has never been a place to sit back and let things happen, and the early years of the 21st century have seen it smarten up its act considerably, in keeping with the needs of a more discerning traveller. Boutique hotels sprang up in Palma, and the tourist office stopped advertising sun, sea and sangria and started marketing agroturismos (smart rural hotels, often with a foodie focus), cycling holidays and a vast portfolio of cultural events.
Places to visit in Mallorca
Moderniste architecture and trendy nightlife in Palma
The island measures 72km (45 miles) by 96km (60 miles), and well over half of the population lives in the animated and cosmopolitan capital city of Palma de Mallorca. La Seu, the formidable Gothic cathedral, was founded in 1299 – after the Reconquest by Jaume I (the Conqueror) – and dominates the seafront. The interior’s magnificent proportions and traditional splendour are enhanced by Gaudí’s baldachin hanging over the main altar. Alongside is the island’s most important building, the classical-style Palau de l’Almudaina, with delicately arched and covered balconies, which was once a palace for the Muslim governors. After the Reconquest, it was renovated for the medieval kings of Mallorca. High on the hill overlooking Palma and commanding both the land and sea approaches, is the distinctive cylindrical silhouette of the tower of the 14th-century Castell de Bellver.
The bays and marinas of northern Mallorca
Exploring Mallorca’s 965-km- (600-mile-) long coastline clockwise from Palma, the first stop must be the new marina and restaurant complex of Portals Nous, where the size of the yachts is sure to impress. High-rise Magaluf, though, is attractive mainly to the Brits who flock there in tens-of-thousands. Port d’Andratx lies close to the western tip of the island, on a sheltered bay popular with boating fans. Banyalbufar, to the north, has some of the island’s finest terraced orchards, and Esporlas has La Granja, a cross between a stately home, craft centre, traditional farmhouse and museum of rural life.
The monastery at Valldemosa
Valldemosa, which lies just inland, is a magnet for tourists who come to visit the monastery of La Real Cartuja, built on top of a royal castle. In it, you can see exhibits relating to the novelist George Sand and her companion, Frédéric Chopin, who rented rooms here between 1838 and 1839.
Pretty Deià, famed for its literary connections
Turning back to the coast road, which in itself is a challenge, the next stop is Deià, probably the island’s most attractive town, a pretty hilltop community built from honey-coloured stone. Something of an artists’ colony – Robert Graves, the English poet and novelist, author of I, Claudius, is buried in the cemetery – this is also a good base for visiting the Tramuntana region in the northwest. A favourite haunt of the independent traveller, there are few beaches here, but a spectacular – and hair-raising – road allows fantastic views.
The train trip to Sollér
The town of Sóller is linked to Palma by a delightful narrow-gauge railway, with polished wood carriages making the hour-long journey through orchards and then mountain scenery. An old San Francisco-style open tram then travels the short journey down to the seaside and the pretty harbor of Port de Sóller.
Pollença to Port d'Alcúdia, with stunning coastal views
The road between Sóller and Pollença is difficult and not particularly interesting, with the exception of the Monestir de Lluc, home to La Moreneta (the Black Madonna). Pollença itself is worth a visit to see the Calvario and a Roman bridge, while the nearby Port de Pollença is a very pleasant resort, not overly spoilt by tourism. To the north are the isolated and splendid cliffs of the Cap de Formentor. Heading south from this northernmost point, you will find the walled town of Alcúdia with its Roman ruins and popular Sunday market, and the busy beach resort of Port d’Alcúdia.
Caves and grottoes in eastern and southern Mallorca
The main town at the easternmost end of the island is Cala Ratjada, a combined port and resort. Porto Cristo, further south, is a pleasant resort built around a protected harbour. One of the most popular tourist excursions on Mallorca, however, is a trip to the nearby Coves del Drac (Dragon’s Caves), where you can see dramatically lit formations, and the similar Coves de Artà.
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