Saldang village, high in the mountains of western Nepal 22 Sep 2016

Posted on 22 Sep 2016

Saldang village, high in the mountains of western Nepal

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Far removed from the rest of the country, western Nepal is a land apart, an untamed and sparsely populated region offering rich rewards for the hardy and determined traveller.

Trekkers bound for west Nepal enter a world far removed from the teahouses of the south. Only the hardy need apply – those willing to weather the difficulties for the great rewards of more isolated and rugged Nepal. Except for the Terai and silt-fed valleys, the region is agriculturally impoverished. All food and drink must be carried in as there are few opportunities to restock.

Customarily ill-prepared to accommodate outsiders – peoples such as the Thakuris consider it polluting to house a foreigner and so there is no tradition of trekking lodges here – tents and camping equipment are also required. A reliable trekking guide is invaluable in finding elusive paths and dealing with non-English speaking porters. Travel to the remote west is no easy jaunt. While the high Mugu and Limi valleys in Humla have been opened to permit-holding hikers and a number of operators offer organised trips here, facilities are almost non-existent, access is difficult, and the terrain wild. This is one of the poorest and most remote parts of Nepal, and a trek here still has many of the characteristics of a genuine expedition – thrilling, authentic and rewarding, but not to be undertaken lightly.

For a less arduous but nonetheless rewarding trekking experience, look no further than Insight Guides' Annapurna Adventure, a trip that will take you mountain-biking, trekking and white-water rafting in the heart of the Himalayas.

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I hadn’t ridden a bicycle for 20 years and was a bit apprehensive but it was OK and I was ‘sold’ as I could cycle without being weighed down by a big bag. Without a jeep transferring our bags this would have been really hard work for me though and I’d have probably hated it. I found the cycling a bit bumpy at times, but I could cycle at my own pace and there was always incredible scenery to take in. Why rush? I certainly appreciated that our overnight halts afforded creature comforts like private rooms, proper beds and hot showers. Having electricity to use a hair dryer was a major plus! Getting dusty every day seemed to be par for the course, especially with those afternoon winds. Electric blankets or hot water bottles were very welcome at the higher altitude places we stayed in. I rather liked the lodge at Thasang. What a location, although being on top of a hill we had to earn those views the hard way. I liked Kagbeni too, so, so different to what we’d seen of Nepal so far. It felt more like we were in Tibet. The changes in the scenery and everything that goes with that were amazing and fascinating as we descended. Travelling by bike meant that we were going fast enough to notice the changes every day, but slow enough to take it all in and stop whenever we felt like it. I’m rather proud that I cycled all of it, except the last little bit up to Thasang where I found it easier to push my bike. We went from a mountain desert to alpine to jungle in just a matter of days and the views of the Himalayas is way beyond dramatic. The size of Dhaulagiri is almost impossible to believe until you see it. Taking a break at Thasang was a good idea as it gave me a break from the bike and the walk to Sekong Lake was very worthwhile. Looking behind to Dhaulagiri and across to Annapurna is something I’ll never forget. Best picnic location ever. My partner loved the downhill ride from Thasang to Tatopani, but I was happy taking my time and cycling through the villages was a great way of making new friends, especially the local kids who were always smiling and waving. Reaching Tatopani was odd as it suddenly felt quite warm, although I was very happy to enjoy a good soak in the hot springs and the last day of cycling was easy. Anil, our guide, was wonderful. So friendly and patient, but very laid back too. I’ve never been paragliding, but I loved that and the views and sensation of flying is impossible to describe. It was a lot easier than I thought and I think if I was to do it again I’d like to try flying with one of the trained vultures. We also went rafting too, another first for me. Much more relaxing than I expected it would be, apart from one or two hairy bits at the end. I was surprised as to how wild and remote it felt paddling down river with nothing but birds for company. Going back to Kathmandu was quite the shock though. I wasn’t quite ready for all that hustle and bustle again and with hindsight should have chosen somewhere a bit more away from the touristy part. Still, it was handy for me having all the shops close by and we found a few quiet court yard cafes to escape too. Pilgrims Book Shop is particularly good for way more than just books. Reflecting on our adventure we both felt that we’d done something rather unique and you don’t really appreciate just how varied this trip is until you look at your photo album. I felt a real sense of achievement and that I got to experience a great deal more of Nepal than I’d anticipated. The Himalayas are amazing, but my fondest memory is of the people of Nepal. So cheerful and friendly.

Larry Oct 2019