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Jerusalem: Highlights

Inside the 16th-century walls of the Old City stand the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, where it is believed Christ was crucified and resurrected, the Dome of the Rock, where Muslims believe Mohammed ascended to heaven, and the Western Wall, the only remaining structure from the Second Temple. Also enjoy the colorful Arab Market. Outlying New Jerusalem also has things to do. Here, in contrast, you'll find bold geometric architecture erupting from every hillside; tree-lined boulevards; high-rises towering over church steeples and city parks; bars, theaters and luxury hotels. The Israel Museum and the Yad Vashem Holocaust History Museum come within this area.

The Western Wall

The stone steps at the end of Tif’eret Yisra’el lead down to the most important site in all of Jewish civilization: the Western Wall. Rising to a height of 15 meters (50ft), the Western Wall consists chiefly of massive carved stone blocks from the Herodian era, topped by masonry from the Mameluke and Turkish periods. Contrary to popular belief, it was not a part of the Temple itself, but merely the retaining wall for the western side of the Temple Mount. But because it was the only remnant of the Temple complex to survive the Romans’ sack of the city, it has inspired the reverence of Jewish people for 2,000 years. As Jews also gathered here to bemoan the loss of the Temple, the place earned the evocative sobriquet “Wailing Wall.”

Dome of the Rock

The most eye-catching structure on Haram esh-Sharif is the Dome of the Rock. The outside of the edifice, which is a shrine and not a mosque, is a fantasia of marble, mosaics and stained glass, painted tiles, and quotations from the Koran, all capped by the gold-plated aluminum dome. The inside of the Dome of the Rock focuses on the huge boulder called the Kubbet es-Sakhra. This is the sacred rock on which Abraham was said to have prepared the sacrifice of Isaac. It is also the spot on which, during his mystical journey to Jerusalem, Mohammed is said to have mounted his steed and ascended to heaven. Appropriately enough, the heavenly interior of the famous golden dome shines down from above, a truly joyous achievement in gold leaf, mosaic, and stained glass. Note that non-Muslims are no longer permitted to visit the interiors of the Dome of the Rock or the El-Aqsa Mosque.

Arab Market (Bazaar)

About 150 meters (165yds) in from the Jaffa Gate

A little way in from the Jaffa Gate is the narrow entrance to the labyrinthine Bazaar. Go straight down into the Arab souk. Aggressively friendly shopkeepers will assault you with all manner of trinkets at “special prices,” but take time to distinguish the quality from the trash, because both forms are plentiful. Prices in the stores nearest the Jaffa Gate are generally more expensive, and some shopkeepers even have the chutzpah to refuse to haggle. The farther into the market you go, the better the bargains. It’s a wonderful place for bargain hunters: from Palestinian pottery and Armenian tiles to brass coffee servers, and sheepskin jackets, gloves, and slippers.

Church of the Holy Sepulcher

Visitors to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher can find both its size and its complexity rather bewildering. Several Christian communities currently share the church, each maintaining its own chapels and altars and conducting services according to its own schedule. Each is responsible for the sanctity and maintenance of a scrupulously specified area. With its gloomy interior, its bustle of construction work, its competing chants, and multiple aromas of incense, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher can seem intimidating. Despite all this, the church maintains its magnificence. The focal points, of course, are the section built over the hillock where the Crucifixion took place (called Golgotha, from the Hebrew, or Calvary, from the Latin), and the tomb where Jesus was laid. These sites encompass the continuation of the Via Dolorosa and the final Stations of the Cross.

The Israel Museum

Tel: 02-670 8811

www.imj.org.il

The Israel Museum is Israel’s national museum and a leading showcase for the country’s art, archeology, and Judaica. Its most famous exhibit is the Shrine of the Book which displays the Dead Sea Scrolls. These scraps of tattered parchment represent the oldest known copy of the Old Testament. Another highlight is the Model of the Second Temple in the Israel Museum compound. This impressive 1:50 scale model of Jerusalem in AD 66 conveys just how vast the Second Temple complex must have been. 

Yad Vashem Holocaust History Museum

Tel: 02-644 3520

www.yadvashem.org.il

Remembrance is a key theme of modern Judaism, and Jerusalem has no shortage of memorials. The Yad Vashem Holocaust History Museum is a striking memorial to the 6 million Jews massacred by the Nazis. Daring in its design, the museum is housed in a linear, triangular structure (which some compare to a Toblerone container) stretching for 160 meters (525ft) beneath a hillside.The complex also includes a central chamber, Ohel Yizkor, or the Hall of Remembrance, which sits on a base of rounded boulders. Inside, an eternal flame flickers amid blocks of black basalt rock engraved with the names of 21 death camps.